Should you be filling your brows?
Let’s talk about eyebrows. Gosh, I feel like there is extraordinarily little else that frames a face. A well-intentioned brow will make your eyes stand out, will add expression to your face, and make you look more polished. If you’re a 90s kid like me, you may have plucked your brows to smithereens – going for the perfect Gwen Stefani pencil thin look. It wasn’t a good look. Step away from the tweezers, I am begging you. Maybe you’ve never even thought about your brows? Well, this is for you too. I hope to convince you that brows are perhaps the most important thing you should be doing on your face. I will teach you all you need to know and show you an easy peasy way to do it quickly and effectively.
Here is an example of the difference a brow can make. Notice I’ve filled one brow in and left the other. Notice the way the filled brow brings out my eyes, and balances my nose.
Let’s begin by talking about brow tools. A spoolie brush, a small pair of brow shears, and tweezers (to use sparingly). Find a good brow pencil or marker that you love. For years, I used a pencil from Sally Beauty that had the most gorgeous powder finish. This year, they discontinued it. I’ve tried six or seven different ones since then and I think my favorites are the NYX lift and snatch brow marker and the Elf Instant lift brow pencil. I am a blonde, so I like mine in Taupe, but if you are darker a darker one would be appropriate.
Now, Let’s talk about parameters. There is a specific proportion for your brows based on your face shape and features. Hold a brow pencil vertically at the side of your nose, extending to your brows. Make a small, vertical dash there. That’s where your brow should start.
Are you 2 or 3 centimeters short? Many people are. Your brow will frame your face better if we can extend it closer to your nose. Then, hold your brow pencil in the same position and tip it out at an angle starting at the bottom of your nose and connecting with the outside corner of your eye and extending up toward your brow. Make a small dash there. This is where your brow should end. Same goes, you may have a little more room to go to get to that point. Do it. It will look more proportional and will make your eyes stand out.
Then, tip your pencil from that position inside toward your nose and stop at your iris while you are looking head on. Make a small dash there. This is where the arch of your brow should be. You may be like me and have fairly arch less brows. This is where you will create a soft arch to give shape to your brow. When shaping your brows, know that a thicker brow will look more natural and modern. Be aware of your face shape and your features, a delicate face may require a slightly less full brow while a sturdier face can handle a fuller brow. Also, bear in mind your hair texture and density. I have exceptionally fine hair, so I would look silly with a super thick brow because my hair would give me away and make it look unnatural. If you have very thick hair, you should be wearing a full brow.
Now that you have your brow parameters marked, we are going to start at the lower inside brow and make upward dashes that look like hairstrokes. Fill in the spaces, draw over toward your nose if you need a little more room there. PRO TIP: if you have a wide nose, cheat your brows in toward your nose ever so slightly past your mark and it will slim your nose. When you get to your arch, draw just slightly upward and follow the natural shape of your brow. Then, continue on toward your brow tails. They should taper and get thinner at the ends. If they don’t extend to your mark, your eyes will look larger than they are (if you have small eyes and want them to look larger, you know what to do). If your tails extend too far, your eyes will look smaller than they are – not a good look.
Now that you have drawn your shape, use your spoolie brush to softly brush your brows in an upward and out motion. This will soften your filled brows and make them appear more natural. If you have stray hairs extending above your natural brow line when brushed upward, use those small shears to nip the long ends away. Brush the tails downward and out. Tweeze (or have waxed) anything that falls outside of the brow parameters we made.
Now, go friends, and practice your brow shaping. After a time or three, it will go quickly and come naturally. Check out the Squad Instagram @scissortailsquad and check the highlights for my demo.
