Ask A Stylist
What is the best dry shampoo out there?
When and why should I use Heat protectant?
How often should I wash my hair?
What kind of brush is best for my hair?
What can I do about dandruff?
Can I brush my hair when it is wet?
What could be causing my hair loss?
Are there any of those questions above that you think, ‘yeah! I want to know too!’, or are you like: ‘well, duh?’ I’ve been a professional stylist for 19 years this year, and these are the questions I see come up more than anything. Thanks to Heather for helping me to compile a list. I’d love to answer each of these briefly and if you’ve got any more questions, I would love for you to engage us on social media and I’ll be happy to answer them!
Shall we take a break from Johnny and Amber and jump right in?:
- Q: Can ponytails break my hair?
A: Yes, yes, and yes. Now, this question depends a lot on the type of hair you have. If you happen to be one of those gems blessed with course, strong hair – your risk really is pretty low. If, however, you are in my camp and have fine or weak hair (or both!) you owe it to yourself to read on. Time and time again I have clients come in and wonder why their hair just isn’t growing, or why they have heavy flyaways that won’t stay in a ponytail. Well, you guessed it. Your ponytail is to blame. Beware of thin, rigid ponytail holders, ones with metal clasps, or any silicone gripping. Steer clear of knobby textured ones, ones with knots in them, and even the very basic thin ones. Those all wriggle and move against your fragile locks in a sawing motion and you had better believe they will shred finely textured hair. Instead, choose ones like THIS that are soft, broad, and gentle or choose ones like THIS – but beware with this type, some of the generic ones are rubberized and counterproductive. I do love the name brand ones for an updo because they really hold snugly and securely without doing any damage. Also, with this type if you find they have stretched out, put them in a mug and top them with very hot water. They will shrink right back to original size. My favorite budget hack? Take an old pair of tights or nylons (if you were born after 1991 google it…..lol) and cut a leg off horizontally. Using the narrow part (ankle) cut 1 inch wide rings horizontally across the legs. Voila: gentle hair ties. Bonus points if its an old pair of child’s dance tights. They are the perfect size, but any will work. - Q: What is the best dry shampoo out there?
A: THIS one. Not even close. - Q: When and why should I use a heat protectant?
A: You use heat protectant to create a protective layer on your hair as your heat style it. Most heat protectants have technologies that allow their product to burn and evaporate before the heat reaches your hair, in turn keeping your hair safe. You should apply a protective product prior to putting any amount of heat on your hair. I like THIS product best. Its an OG in my world but not much compares to all the benefits you get from it. With this product, you would spray it in your hair before you begin a blow dry. If you chose to curl or flat iron after your blow dry, I would recommend a very light spritz prior to that as well. Check your package directions, but most will be along those lines. There are hundreds of heat protectants out there, and most will do. Most are sprays but you can get protection from creams, serums, and oils. Look for the words “heat protection”, “thermal protection”, or “protection up to (however many) degrees”. We put tools on our hair at higher temperatures than we would cook a chicken at, please be kind to your hair. - Q: How often should I wash my hair?
A: Honestly, the answer for this is going to be different for everyone and may change throughout the year. My disclaimer is this: nearly all people are over washing their hair. First, and very quick anatomy lesson. Our scalp contains many sebaceous glands, typically alongside a hair follicle. The role of the sebaceous glands is to produce and excrete sebum, an oily fatty substance meant to lubricate and protect the skin. Sebum is what everyone sees that would cause them to call their hair “oily” or “dirty”. Sebum is good, you want it. Dry scalps are painful and unhealthy. Sebum production is directly related to the amount of moisture in our skin, so when we dry our skin out, those glands will produce more sebum to compensate. So, think of the cycle like this: you wake up, look in the mirror and think ‘wow, I need to wash my hair. It is so oily.’ Then, you hop in the shower and use your harshest shampoo hoping to ban the oil from your hair. Later that night or the next morning, you are amazed at how oily your hair looks already despite giving it a good wash that morning. It is a vicious cycle, and it goes on and on and on until you make a change. You see oily hair, you wash it. It dries out those sebaceous glands who think “oh, we are really dry, better kick it in high gear”, you see oil again and wash the bajeebers out of it again. It is a cycle that leaves your sebaceous glands in overproduction mode forever. You are not so oily naturally that you need to wash twice a day. Pretty much no one is, you’ve just created an overproduction cycle. Have no fear, it can be reversed. The first thing you have to do is stop washing so dang much.
Most people can get by with washing 1-3 times a week (or even less for the lucky ones) once hair is properly trained.
If you wash your hair every day right now, commit to only washing it every other day and work your way up from there. You will also need a boar bristle brush (see question #5), and you need to use it twice a day, morning and night. Use dry shampoo lightly to stretch it. The cycle takes about 6 weeks to stop the overproduction cycle for most, but it can be done. I have very fine hair and I do well washing around twice a week. When the humidity kicks up in Oklahoma, I may have to throw an extra one in there now and then. In the winter, I can stretch it to once a week. If you have thick hair, I am sure you can make it a full week and even longer. Jasmineraehairco on instagram has a great hair training highlight that she demonstrates all these amazing techniques they taught us cosmetologists in school. She’s a great resource. - Q: What kind of brush do I need?
A: You need more than one. You will need a detangling brush, like THIS or a wide tooth comb if you prefer, and you need a brush that contains 100% natural boar bristles. You can use your detangling brush out of the shower to lightly detangle when your hair is damp – but be sure it is a wet approved brush, meaning it has wide very flexible bristles. Then, your main brush will be a boar bristle brush for every moment your hair is dry. Those natural bristles do something amazing, they will pick up the natural oils on your scalp and move them down your hair strand where they are needed for moisture. Those oils are actually very good for your hair. In order for you to train your hair, you should
vigorously brush your hair morning and night with your boar brush, I like THIS one, making sure to make good scalp contact. I am telling you; it will make a difference. - Q: What can I do about dandruff?
A: If you are brushing your hair daily you will have less issues with it. Dandruff is often the product of a dry scalp, so proper moisture and brushing will help. Less often, though, dandruff can be a waxy dandruff caused by a blocked scalp. A shampoo scrubber and a salicylic acid shampoo will make a difference here. - Q: How should I treat my hair when it is wet?
A: Barring a wet brush detangling brush, don’t brush it. Please don’t. Our hair stretches 50% more when it is wet than when it is dry and that stretchiness will make for some breakage, but more importantly – don’t put your hair up wet for the same reason – if you secure your hair while it is stretched out and your hair shrinks while it is drying, it will snap. Bottom Line: be really gentle with your wet hair. It is fragile. Think Wide tooth combs, wet brushes, finger combing, towel drying by squeezing and not rubbing or roughing – treat it like a delicate garment. - Q: What could be causing my hair loss?
A: So, so many things. Thyroid, hormones, stress, nutrition, hard water, inactivity, grief, product buildup…… and the list could go on and on. The first place to start with hair loss is your physician. We are not doctors, so it is always best to start there and rule out anything internal, then we can work through the other possibilities after that based on your own personal story. I will say, as a footnote, I have seen about a third of my client base (which is large) with significant post COVID-19 hair loss through this pandemic. This has been true forever: anything that significantly impacts out health (whether we had major symptoms or not) impacts our hair. If you were to have any illness that did a number on your system, you would have a much greater risk of hair loss. Typically, event related hair loss shows up 2-4 months after an event so if you had covid within the last 6 months, I would think it’s safe to assume it could be a side effect from the virus. The good news is that you don’t have to do anything. It takes about six more months for our systems to go back to normal and your hair to recover from a traumatic event (could be covid, but also stress or trauma). You do not need to change any products or supplements, it will come back on its own – but believe me if you go asking for help at a health food store, social media, or elsewhere, there will always be someone willing to convince you to spend your money on something you don’t need in the long run.
I hope that has helped, and again I would love to hear any more questions you might have. Connect with us on Socials and let’s hear them!
